Electronic Enhancers
This categorically includes any electronic device intended to alter signals affecting ECU operation for the purpose of re-tuning the fuel and/or spark timing strategies. It may seem ironic that we are suggesting you use our electronic enhancer (the IXR), yet this page discourages you from using other enhancers. First, some gizmos are way over-priced for what they are, very few actually work with the ECU, and therefore stop working after a short period of time. Some trip a DTC (Diagnostic Trouble Code) which lights up the CEL (Check Engine Light). Here are a few common ones, what they do, and why most cannot work as advertised most of the time.
Performance Enhancers
Electronic “Performance Enhancers” can be found littered all over eBay for $20 and up. The instructions say to wire them across the 2 Intake Air Temp (IAT) sensor wires. They are designed to show the ECU colder intake air so it advances ignition timing. If you take them apart (most are epoxied so you can’t), all you’ll find is a $0.03 resistor (less than a penny when ordered in quantity). That’s It! So for your $20+ you get a 3 cent resistor packaged in a $1 plastic enclosure with about $0.50 worth of wire. Total materials cost = less than $2.
On really old vehicles, this trick actually works. The adaptive strategies in the primitive ECUs have no work-around. Newer ECUs will look at all of the temperature sensors on initial start-up; this includes Air, Coolant, Exhaust, ambient, HVAC — all temperature sensors. If the engine is started hot, of course they won’t all be the same. However, there are provisions to detect a cold start (like a timer that keeps track of how much time has elapsed between turning the engine off and the next start). If one sensor is consistently different from the rest, the ECU recalibrates the value of that sensor. This is why fixed Performance Enhancers stop working after a short period of time on newer vehicles.
E.F.I.E. Type Devices
George Wiseman of Eagle Research developed his HyCO and Hyzor technologies decades ago. The HyCO was a bubbler with gasoline inside that admitted a little fuel vapor into the air charge. It was pretty much dry vapor (ready to burn RIGHT NOW), which improved power output. This meant less throttle angle to maintain speed, which equated to better fuel economy. The Hyzor was his version of HHO.
These tricks worked extremely well on older (by 1990’s standards) carbureted engines. However, the newer (again, relative) fuel injected engines didn’t get near the gains. George found that by adding a few millivolts to the oxygen sensor signal, the ECU would see a rich mixture and lean it out. This dramatically improved the economy of the ECU controlled vehicles of the time. He called this O2 sensor signal modifier the Electronic Fuel Injection Enhancer, or E.F.I.E. for short.
First: When the EFIE was introduced, ALL oxygen sensors were the Narrow Band (NB) type. Subsequently, we now have AFR and Wide Band (WB) sensors, which don’t work with the EFIE. (There was also a Titania sensor used for 3 years in the early 1990’s.) Secondly: Even newer NB vehicles have adaptive strategies that look at the O2 volts when the key is first turned on. The sensor should be cold and not yet working. Any voltage is automatically subtracted from what the ECU references as zero. Furthermore, when you let off the throttle going down a mountain (or coming to a stop), the ECU turns the injectors off. This is called Decel Fuel Cut. Again, the O2 sensors should be producing close to 0.000 volts. With the EFIE, it never does. Thus, the ECU renders it useless in VERY short order (and probably sets a DTC).
As a side note, the HyCO and Hyzor technologies qualify as genuine combustion enhancers. Kudos to George and his innovations (he is a respectable and knowledgeable inventor). His EFIE worked very well back in the 1990s, but not with newer vehicles.
MAP Adjust
The Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor monitors engine vacuum as a load indicator. At initial Key-On the ECU takes a snap shot of the Barometric Pressure. The MAP signal works in conjunction with the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) to determine engine load for the fuel and spark timing Look-Up Tables. By offsetting the VREF (normally 5 volts), the Signal can be influenced either up or down. A lower VREF shows higher altitude for the Baro, and higher vacuum throughout the operating range. This = lower load = less fuel = more spark timing advance.
The effects of the MAP Adjust are a major trade off. If you improve combustion efficiency, it is by speeding up the burn. You need less ignition timing advance for maximum performance & economy. The fact that the Performance Enhancers are able to improve performance by advancing the ignition timing on stock engines suggests that the ECU is programmed with conservative Ignition Timing Tables (undoubtedly to thwart NOX formation). Up to a point, it is better to increase the rate of combustion to where the stock ignition timing becomes ideal.
The Interjector™ (IXR™)
The IXR alters the signature of the fuel injector. Modern ECUs measure injector properties, and have Compensation Tables that allow deviation from the standard Look-Up Tables. The IXR works with the oxygen sensors to deliver the right amount of fuel, based on the new Combustion Efficiency levels. The ECU sees a different fuel injector, which gives it permission to trim fuel beyond the normal limits. It does not cause a DTC, it is non-invasive, and it doesn’t alter sensor signals. It is recommended to be used in conjunction with combustion efficiency enhancements, but not on stock engines.
Conclusion
This is just a snap-shot of common Electronic Enhancers. There are many others as well. When evaluating them, consider a few things:
Does it work with the ECU (probably not)? This would usually require a microcontroller that observes engine operating conditions and alters the “Tune” accordingly. Ideally, it would connect to the OBD-II to get ECU feedback.
Will it trip a DTC? This affects the legality of the device, and may affect your annual emissions inspection.
Does it actually work? What is the manufacturer claiming their device will do for you? How does the device accomplish it; what is the effective mechanism?
Does the manufacturer/seller offer a money-back satisfaction guarantee? Are they confident enough in their product to put their money where their mouth is?
Is the company real? Do they give you their name(s)? Do they list their qualifications as to why they are the expert? Is there a back story behind their invention; what triggered the idea? With most products, someone without any real knowledge “borrows” (steals) an idea from someone else — whether it works or not. They copy or repackage it and try to sell it to you. They have no real idea how it works, or even if it does work. This will be the vast majority of eBay sellers you encounter.
All of this should apply to what you read (or see) on this site. Question everything. Try to find other sources that validate the concepts, laboratory and university studies are usually quite credible. Maybe ask your mechanic if it makes sense to him/her. In other words, before you spend your money, do your research.
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MPGenie Basics 051 Training - Exposing Enhancers
